Palas de Rei to Arzúa Stage: Complete Guide (29 km)

The Palas de Rei – Arzúa Stage

The stage from Palas de Rei to Arzúa is the longest of the last 100 km of the Camino Francés, covering 29 kilometres. You walk through the heart of rural Galicia among eucalyptus and oak forests, stone hamlets with centuries-old hórreos (raised stone granaries) and landscapes that capture the very best of the Camino.

Stage data

• Distance: 29 km
• Ascent: 450 m
• Descent: 550 m
• Difficulty: Medium-high (due to distance, not terrain)
• Estimated time: 7-8 hours
• Midpoint: Melide (km 15)

The route step by step

Leaving Palas de Rei (km 0)

The stage begins in the centre of town. You follow the yellow arrows along the main street and the path quickly enters rural countryside. The first kilometres are a gentle descent through meadows and forests.

San Xulián do Camiño (km 3.5)

First stop, with a small 12th-century Romanesque church, one of the oldest on this stretch. The setting is very peaceful and worth a brief visit.

Casanova (km 6.5)

A tiny hamlet with traditional Galician hórreos — those raised stone structures once used to store grain. There's a fountain to refill your water bottle. The path winds between oaks and chestnut trees on a very pleasant stretch.

Leboreiro (km 10)

One of the prettiest villages on the Camino. The church of Santa María de Leboreiro has a Romanesque tympanum depicting the Virgin that deserves attention. But the most photographed feature is the medieval bridge over the River Seco, framed by the village. Take a few minutes to enjoy it.

Furelos (km 13)

Three-arched Romanesque bridge over the River Furelos. Another of the most photogenic spots on the stage. From here, Melide is only 2 km away — a good moment to pick up the pace if you're hungry.

Melide (km 15): the octopus capital

Midpoint of the stage and an essential stop. Melide is where you eat the best pulpo á feira (Galician-style octopus) on the Camino, and arguably in all of Galicia. This is where the Camino Primitivo joins the Camino Francés, so the town has a lively pilgrim atmosphere.

What to see in Melide

• Cruceiro in the centre: One of the oldest stone crosses in Galicia, dating from the 14th century
• Church of San Pedro: Well-preserved Romanesque portal
• Church of Sancti Spiritus: 14th century, in the town centre

Where to eat octopus in Melide

Pulpo á feira is served on a wooden board, cut with scissors, dressed with extra-virgin olive oil, coarse salt and paprika. It comes with cachelos (Galician boiled potatoes) and country bread. To drink, Ribeiro wine served in a cunca (ceramic bowl).

The best-known restaurants:

• Pulpería Ezequiel: The most famous, open for decades. Queues at peak times
• Pulpería A Garnacha: Ezequiel's great rival, very popular with locals and pilgrims alike
• Pulpería Antoxo: Well regarded among returning pilgrims
• Pulpería Carmen: Less touristy, a favourite with townspeople

Tip: arrive before 13:30 or after 15:00 to avoid the high-season queues.

Boente (km 21)

Church of Santiago de Boente with a figure of the Apostle James on the altar. The Boente fountain is a good place to refill your water. By this point in the stage you'll feel the kilometres in your legs.

Castañeda (km 24)

A village with history: for centuries, pilgrims carried limestone from afar to the lime kilns of Castañeda. The lime was used in the construction of Santiago Cathedral. Church of Santa María.

Ribadiso (km 26.5)

One of the most beautiful spots on the entire Camino. A restored medieval hostel beside the River Iso, with a gorgeous stone bridge. In summer, many pilgrims take off their boots and dip their feet in the river. The perfect rest before the final 2.5 km to Arzúa.

Arriving in [Arzúa](/en/blog/arzua-cheese-camino-santiago) (km 29)

Arzúa is famous for its Queso de Arzúa-Ulloa, a PDO-certified cow's milk cheese that is creamy and mild — try it at any bar. The town has all the services: hostels, guesthouses, pharmacies, ATMs and supermarkets.

Splitting the stage into two days

29 km is a lot for many pilgrims, especially after several days of accumulated walking. Splitting in Melide is the most popular option:

• Day 1: Palas de Rei – Melide (15 km).: A comfortable stage, you arrive by midday and spend the afternoon resting and eating octopus at leisure.
• Day 2: Melide – Arzúa (14 km).: A short and relaxed stage so you arrive with energy to spare.

Another option: walk as far as your body allows and call a taxi for the remaining kilometres. From Palas de Rei we pick up pilgrims at any point on the Camino.

Practical tips for this stage

• Start early. In summer, there's daylight by 7:00 and you avoid the heat

• Carry at least 1.5 litres of water. There are fountains but they're spaced out

• Waterproof footwear. Forest stretches get muddy even in summer after rain

• Don't skip Melide. It's the best place to eat on the entire stage

• If you're short on time, prioritise stops at Leboreiro (bridge photo) and Ribadiso (rest by the river)

• If your legs feel heavy by the time you reach Melide, consider not pushing on and taking a taxi to Arzúa

Transport between Palas de Rei and Arzúa

If you need a taxi at any point on this stage, from Palas de Rei we cover the whole route. We'll pick you up wherever you are and take you to your next destination. We also transport backpacks and luggage.

Fixed price, no meter, no surprises. Book in advance.